London Collections: Men Spring/Summer 2015
LCM is being covered by D’Marge editor-in-chief Luc Wiesman, who’s currently in London.
The final day of LCM came to an action-packed climax. Both Paul Smith and Jimmy Choo held BMX and skate park exhibits, respectively, showcasing the latest in their sporty, suit fabric technology and the way footwear practicalities have influenced the luxury fashion sneaker. While Day 3 was more about British tailoring and heritage, Day 4 was definitely claimed by athleisure’s hold on men’s wear – still, and updated versions of all things retro.
Inspired by Britons in the Fifties, designer Patrick Grant returned his signature post-war greys and utilitarian construction to the runway, adding pops of sugary colour to give each outfit a taste of summer. With a perfect mix of tailoring and luxury sports wear, Grant sent out crooner-look models in high-waist pants – some ultra wide-leg and in heavy denim – under boxy retro shirts and fine knits.
Athleisure parkas and tech-y raincoats in aqua, dull reds and canary yellow livened up the greys, as add gingham shirts (think checks) and the quirky bermuda shorts for summer, with sewn in front pleats. Definitely a collection for a modern day Frank Sinatra.
The Tom Ford presentation opened with mohair three-piece suits and waistcoats carrying watch fobs – a tech-savvy Apple watch attached instead of the more traditional pocket timepiece. Inspired by The Thomas Crown Affair and Steve McQueen, sharp tailoring sat next to denim jackets worn under macs, and leather jackets came worn with striped sweaters.
Meanwhile, psychedelic dinner jackets were reflective of Andy Warhol’s Factory Days; patterned in swirling oranges and pinks or purples and blues. Sun ray-coloured lenses in black frames capped of the looks, reminding all of the luxurious sexiness that comes by wearing Tom Ford.
It was a sci-fi gentlemen’s collection at Christopher Kane, with futuristic prints cascading onto button shirts, suits and longline outerwear. A fan of the origins of things, Kane took his scientific interests to his clothes, working molecular spots and block-ish stripes into cloth, patterning what looked like cells under a microscope.
Key tailored pieces were the black-and-white flecked tweed suits and topcoats (with coloured specks of red and blue ingrained into the wool) as well as lighter cotton suits summery bone pink and night time navy. Kane’s extreme Aran knits with bold cables might have been a little out of place for summer but proved great tonal pieces in navy, against cobalt blue cotton trousers.
Tiger of Sweden
Offering a collection of largely black, grey and white suiting, Tiger of Sweden closed LCM for another season with a more relaxed style of tailoring. Turning its back on their signature super slim suits (though they did venture out at the end of the show mostly as slick jackets over unstructured trousers), the Scandinavian label channelled a more Greek holiday-meets-Forties detective vibe with loser pant legs, wide, short ties and at times a fedora.
Barber-pole striped suits in single breast cuts met with double breast micro-check suits, before releasing a slim fit denim suit in Seventies blue, creating an allover denim look with a chambray shirt and blue tie. The creamy parka over white was a great look, as was the teal, metallic green suit with a bronze-y orange shirt and tie. Tiger of Sweden know their market is younger and for affordable suiting that feels fashion-y, they are on a win here.
Click through the slideshow for highlights of Day 4 LCM.
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